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 T hirty-eight year ago, when  Raymond Blanc   opened Le Manoir aux Quat’Saison, the restaurant was swiftly awarded two   Michelin stars . This is a distinction in itself; to hold onto them to this day is perhaps even more impressive. The stars seem relevant, as so many chefs trained here go on to win them elsewhere for themselves too: say,   Michael Caines ,   Marco Pierre White ,   Heston Blumenthal . There is a subtle irony to this; while Blanc trained them all — and dozens more besides — the other person he trained was himself. Being entirely self-taught is a rare thing in restaurants. Rich Stein is another; Ben Chapman of Kiln too. In doing so, Blanc has long-refined his own approach to putting dishes together. His cooking is marked by a sense of the classic, the quintessential; below are simple  recipes  for five festive favourites. Each is a Christmas staple, and here each has been perfected. Celeriac puree We eat celeriac a lot in Fra...