Thirty-eight year ago, when Raymond Blanc opened Le Manoir aux Quat’Saison, the restaurant was swiftly awarded two Michelin stars. This is a distinction in itself; to hold onto them to this day is perhaps even more impressive. The stars seem relevant, as so many chefs trained here go on to win them elsewhere for themselves too: say, Michael Caines, Marco Pierre White, Heston Blumenthal.
There is a subtle irony to this; while Blanc trained them all — and dozens more besides — the other person he trained was himself. Being entirely self-taught is a rare thing in restaurants. Rich Stein is another; Ben Chapman of Kiln too.
In doing so, Blanc has long-refined his own approach to putting dishes together. His cooking is marked by a sense of the classic, the quintessential; below are simple recipes for five festive favourites. Each is a Christmas staple, and here each has been perfected.
Celeriac puree
We eat celeriac a lot in France and I remember fondly my Maman’s puree. This is a simple dish that you can make quickly and prepare in advance, and it also freezes very well. The best celeriac is a firm, heavy one — remove the thick skin and cut the flesh into small, even pieces, then gently sweeten it in a little butter for a few minutes in a saucepan covered with a lid. Next, simmer it in milk until soft. Season it with a good pinch of salt and pepper, and puree in your food processor or blender. To finish, add a few drops of lemon juice. Voila!
Pan-fried parsnips
I love the sweetness of parsnips and these are another vegetable rich in nutrients, vitamins and minerals. I cook them lightly in butter, but this is the important bit — the butter should be foaming as you add the parsnips. It should be slightly brown and smell of hazelnuts, but not be burning. After five minutes of gentle sautéing, add a little salt and pepper before finishing the cooking in the oven for about eight minutes at 180°C until they’re tender. Finish with a drizzle of honey and a squeeze of lemon.
My perfect roast potatoes
Everyone seems to have their own little tips and ideas for making the perfect roast potatoes. My lovely Adam, who is my director of operations, is a true master at ruffling — or what you might call fluffing up the outside of the potatoes before boiling — to get the crispiest roasts. I use King Edward potatoes at this time of year, as they are a good all-rounder. Once they have boiled for four or five minutes, drain and leave them to steam for a few minutes before you then ruffle the edges. As soon as you lay them in the hot goose fat, they will begin to crisp up. Roast at 180°C for 35 to 45 minutes until they’re golden. Just before they are ready, I add in a little crushed garlic, rosemary, thyme and a final sprinkling of sea salt — delicious.
Braised red cabbage
This is one of my favourite vegetables and it is so good for you; it’s packed with vitamin A and iron, both good for our immune system, and of course it’s delicious. It’s also a perfect accompaniment to roast turkey, but also works nicely with other meat such as beef or belly pork. For a festive twist, try adding crushed juniper berries, cinnamon sticks, redcurrant jelly, a rich balsamic vinegar as well as orange zest. It really is wonderful. Just mix it all together, put it in a pan and cook it in the oven at 150°C for an hour and 20 mins.
Sprouts with bacon
I love sprouts — they are delicious and can be prepared in many different ways, just as long as they haven’t been cooked to death for hours! I remember how Maman Blanc would prepare the sprouts for us on Christmas Eve; she would blanch them quickly in boiling, salted water, slice them in half before leaving them to cool. Come Christmas day, simply sautée them with some bacon lardons and cooked chestnuts — absolutely delicious.
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